You’re invited to the exclusive Effy Trunk Show! For one day only, each store will be flooded with an amazing array of Effy jewelry! Go ahead and make an appointment below for $100 OFF any purchase at the show!
You’re invited to the exclusive Le Vian Trunk Show! For one day only, each store will be flooded with a sea of gorgeous Le Vian pieces! Go ahead and make an appointment below for a FREE pair of lab grown diamond studs with your show purchase OR $100 OFF any purchase at the show!
You’re invited to the exclusive EFFY Trunk Show! For one day only, each store will be flooded with a sea of gorgeous EFFY pieces! Go ahead and make an appointment below for up to $100 OFF* any purchase at the show!
782 Old Hickory Blvd., Suite 104 Brentwood, TN 37027 615-221-4392 615-594-0604 (Text or Call)
SEPT 21 ONLY Hendersonville Showroom 9:30am – 6:00pm
1050 Glenbrook Way, Suite 400 Hendersonville, TN 37075 615-826-5338 (615) 609-0449 (Text or Call)
EFFY – obsessed with quality & craftsmanship
EFFY is a family-owned company that was started by Effy Hematian in 1979. He actually began his career as an engineer, which gave him a special eye for exquisite workmanship.
Effy channeled his unique vision into some of the world’s most distinctive jewelry designs. He’s perhaps best known for his panther-themed jewelry, which has long been his creative muse.
You’re invited to the exclusive Le Vian Trunk Show! For one day only, each store will be flooded with hundreds and hundreds of fabulous Le Vian pieces, including limited edition jewelry! Go ahead and make an appointment now for $100 OFF any purchase at the show, but the goodies don’t stop there!
Enter to win a $1000 SJR GIFT CARD at the Le Vian Trunk Show!
782 Old Hickory Blvd., Suite 104 Brentwood, TN 37027 615-221-4392 615-594-0604 (Text or Call)
MAY 11 ONLY Hendersonville Showroom 9:30am – 6:00pm
1050 Glenbrook Way, Suite 400 Hendersonville, TN 37075 615-826-5338 (615) 609-0449 (Text or Call)
Le Vian – a rich history, across centuries
Le Vian is a family-owned jewelry company whose history goes back to the 15th century. By 1746, Le Vian caught the eye of one of Persia’s greatest rulers, who put them in charge of guarding his vast collection of precious gems and jewelry. Ever since, Le Vian has carried that tradition with them, seeing themselves as “guardians of the jewels.”
Part of how they do that is with a certification that outlines key details about your Le Vian, plus if you register your piece, Le Vian will repair it completely free for your entire life!
No purchase necessary to enter the $1000 SJR gift card drawing. One entry per customer. Gift card can be used at the Brentwood or Hendersonville store locations. Gift card does not expire. Drawing will take place on May 12. See associate for full details.
It’s February, and love is in the air! Valentine’s Day is the perfect time to show that special someone just how much you care. Sometimes, finding the perfect gift can be daunting, but don’t worry—we’re here to help!
Not only is all diamond fashion 20% OFF in-store and online, but we’ve also put together a Valentine’s day gift guide! Check it out below to see a hand-picked selection of gorgeous pieces for all budgets and styles.
Under $100
In-Store Special – $19.99
This adorable sterling silver heart is stamped with Love—and only costs $19.99! You can’t go wrong with this sweet little pendant.
For the charm bracelet lover, Chamilia beads and charms are the way to go. These sterling silver treasures are 50% OFF online and ONLY $10 each in-store!
For the lover of natural gems, this pear-shaped quartz pendant will not disappoint! Featuring one-of-a-kind inclusions, she’ll be admiring her precious gem for years to come.
For the woman who loves designer jewelry, this Le Vian pendant will definitely delight! Made from 14kt rose gold, it features chocolate and vanilla diamonds plus trendy morganite!
Is your sweetheart a pet lover? Look no further than this diamond-encrusted paw print pendant, featuring 14kt rose gold plus chocolate and vanilla diamonds!
These red garnet & diamond earrings are perfect for the lady who loves romantic gestures. Made from 14kt yellow gold, these earrings will last a lifetime and beyond.
As always, our friendly sales associates are ready to assist you in-store, but if you’d rather stay home and don’t want to shop online, we’re offering our Contactless Concierge service too!
Did you know gold prices are at an all-time high? Take advantage of these amazing, limited-time prices at our upcoming Gold Buying Event! We’re offering INSTANT payment for your unwanted gold, silver, diamonds, and watches, plus a 20% BONUS if you choose a store credit!
For your convenience, we’re hosting this event at both of our stores on separate weekends. Check out the details & make your appointment below:
Hendersonville
September 11-12
1050 Glenbrook Way, Suite 400 Hendersonville, TN 37075 (615) 826-5338
HOURS
Friday the 11th • 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Saturday the 12th • 9:30 am – 5:00 pm
Brentwood
September 18-19
782 Old Hickory Blvd. Suite 104 Brentwood, TN 37027 (615) 221-4392
HOURS
Friday the 18th • 9:30 am – 6:00 pm Saturday the 19th • 9:30 am – 5:00 pm
Don’t let this opportunity pass you by! Now is the perfect time to get top dollar for your unwanted jewelry and watches!
The birthstone for April babies is probably the best known gemstone of all time: diamond. Let’s take a look at what makes this timeless stone such a classic–plus a perfect gift!
A Tough Treasure
There’s no denying that diamonds are uniquely beautiful. No matter a diamond’s hue–ranging from fancy color to nearly colorless—no other gem sparkles quite like a diamond.
While that fact alone makes diamonds an obvious choice for jewelry-making, it’s far from all this wonderful stone has to offer! In fact, probably the best known quality of a diamond is its unsurpassed hardness, reigning at the very top of the Mohs scale (a perfect 10). For this reason, diamonds not only make excellent tools in industrial settings, but also extremely durable treasures, able to be enjoyed by generations to come.
On a day-to-day basis, a diamond’s hardness brings peace of mind, too. Though you always want to be careful with your jewelry, diamonds simply aren’t as fragile as other gemstones, which makes care and cleaning a breeze. Warm soap and water or ultrasonic cleaners are great, easy choices that will bring out that famous sparkle!
Get the Look for Less
Though diamonds come in nearly every color of the rainbow, it’s the classic white variety that is associated with April. If you’re looking for a more affordable option or simply prefer other gemstones, cubic zirconia (CZ), white sapphire, and even moissanite make stunning diamond alternatives!
Cubic zirconia & silver heart-shaped pendant – available here!
Cubic zirconia is the most affordable of the bunch, offering its own unique sparkle as well as a hardness grade of 8 on the Mohs scale. White sapphire—particularly the lab-created variety—would be your next most affordable option. Sapphire boasts a hardness grade of 9 on the Mohs scale, making it great for daily wear! Then there’s moissanite, a synthetic stone that’s growing in popularity due to its fiery sparkle and impressive hardness, coming it at 9.5 on the Mohs scale.
Whichever you choose, a piece of birthstone jewelry is always a great gift–or a great way to treat yourself! Though our store locations are temporarily closed, why not browse our collection online?!
Carat weight might be the most obvious and straight-forward feature of diamond grading. The metric carat is simply the special unit of weight for diamonds and gemstones, and 1 carat equates to 0.200 gram or 0.007 ounce. Diamond grades are as precise as possible when it comes to carat weight, so let’s take a look at what this process entails and how to understand specific weights.
Carats & Points
Diamonds are often so tiny and light-weight that even the metric carat has to be subdivided to produce a precise measurement. That’s why you’ll usually see carat weight expressed as a decimal, like 0.25ct or 1.55ct, but you may also come across something called points. One point (pt) is equal to 0.1 carat (ct).
100 points = 1 carat
Points and decimals allow these tiny gems to be weighed super accurately, but you might also see carat weight expressed as a fraction, like 9/10ct or 3/8ct. However, it’s important to note that fractions are often less precise measurements. Typically, the fraction is actually referring to a range of weights rather than a specific measurement, so a diamond marked 9/10ct might actually weigh 0.90-0.95ct. If you come across a fraction weight, think of it as approximate rather than exact.
You can use the interactive tool below to see how carat weights compare!
How Diamonds are Weighed
Electronic scales are the most accurate tools for measuring gem weight. The best are so precise that they can weigh a diamond all the way down to .001ct (or 1/10 point)! Once an unset diamond is placed on the scale, its weight is read digitally in an instant. From there, the diamond’s weight might be recorded exactly as it is, or it may be rounded up or down to the nearest point (or 1/100ct).
For example, let’s say the scale reads 1.004ct. A diamond grader might record the weight as is, or they might take that number and round it down, labeling the diamond as 1.00ct. Similarly, a diamond which weighs 0.995ct might actually be rounded up, labeling it 1.00ct as well.
Rounding the weight might seem counterproductive or even imprecise, but even when rounded, diamond weights are accurate to 35 millionths of an ounce! Rest assured that rounding such tiny amounts up or down does not significantly impact a diamond’s final value.
How Weight Affects Value
For diamonds, pricing isn’t as straightforward as other things sold by weight. For example, let’s say the price of gold is $1000 per ounce. No matter how many ounces of gold you want to buy, you can just multiply your amount by the per ounce price. So, if you wanted a three ounce bar of gold, you could expect to pay $3000. This is not the case for diamonds!
When it comes to diamonds, value is all about rarity. So, let’s say you’re looking at a 0.50ct diamond priced at $1,500. Based on that price, you might assume that a 1.00ct diamond of comparable quality would cost you $3000. However, a 1.00ct diamond will actually cost up to 4 times more than a 0.50ct diamond!
Why? Because a 1.00ct diamond is much more rare than a 0.50ct diamond, and sizes over 1.00ct only get rarer!
Putting It All Together
When you’re on the hunt for a diamond, you’ll come across many different stones of the same carat weight and cut style, yet they’ll likely be priced differently. Let’s say you’re looking at two round brilliant 1.00ct diamonds, one priced at $3000 and the other $2000. If you’ve made it this far in our blog series, you’ll have a good idea why! Put simply, the higher priced diamond is more rare.
Now, based on that, you might assume that all comparable diamonds of the same weight will cost about the same—but they don’t! Believe it or not, a princess cut diamond with the same grade and weight as a round brilliant diamond will actually cost up to 25% less! That’s because all factors of the 4C’s come together to produce a diamond’s final value, and a princess cut simply costs less to produce. On the flip-side, that means you can get a larger princess cut diamond for the same price as a smaller round brilliant!
When it comes to diamond color, you might find that a 1.00ct natural blue diamond is much more expensive than a 1.00ct white diamond—even if the blue diamond is graded lower in cut and clarity! Why? Because it’s rare enough to find a naturally blue diamond at all—let alone one that weighs 1.00ct after being cut! By the same token, you might find a 1.00ct color-enhanced blue diamond that’s actually less expensive than a 1.00ct white diamond of the same clarity.
As you can see, each of the 4C’s can raise or lower a diamond’s value in unique ways, and now you know why! If you missed our other posts on clarity, color, and cut, check them out for more details on how each factor affects value.
If you still have questions, we’d love to help you further! Why not send us a message or pop into one of our stores?
You can also browse our extensive collection of diamonds and diamond jewelry right here on our website!
Today, we’re going to dive into another part of the 4C’s: clarity. In this context, clarity is defined as “a diamond’s freedom from blemishes and inclusions.” The more free the stone is, the higher the final value will be. Let’s take a look at what these clarity characteristics are and how they’re judged.
Blemishes
Put simply, blemishes are irregularities on a diamond’s surface. Sometimes, blemishes are a perfectly natural part of a diamond’s formation within the earth. For example, irregularities in the diamond’s crystal structure can cause a grainy texture to occur.
Most blemishes, however, are the result of human contact with the stone. Nicks and pits can be formed when a diamond is struck against something, while scratches and abrasions can occur when two diamonds rub up against each other. Similarly, a poor polishing or cutting job can accidentally leave blemishes too.
Believe it or not, some blemishes are actually added on purpose—in order to enhance the appearance of the stone! For example, a diamond cutter might add extra facets, which can actually remove more obvious blemishes. Nonetheless, extra facets are technically considered to be blemishes, too, since they’re surface irregularities.
Inclusions
Inclusions are irregularities inside the diamond. More often than not, inclusions occur as a natural diamond is formed within the earth, but human contact can sometimes create them too.
As far as natural inclusions go, the diamond’s crystal structure or trapped impurities are the most likely causes. Inside the earth, a forming diamond is subjected to unbelievable pressure and comes into contact with all sorts of other elements. An irregular crystal structure can make a diamond look cloudy, grainy or even colored. Likewise, little bits of carbon or other elements can become trapped inside, causing dark or colored spots to appear.
On the other hand, accidental blows or a poor cutting job are usually responsible for human-created inclusions. These mishaps can cause bruises, chips, and fractures. However, just like extra facets, a purposeful inclusion can sometimes mask or eliminate other inclusions. An example of this technique is laser drilling, which can dramatically lessen the appearance of dark spots within the diamond. Nonetheless, the drilling process leaves a tiny channel behind, which counts as an inclusion of its own.
Evaluating Clarity
A jeweler’s loupe, like the one pictured above, is often used to evaluate diamonds
A skilled diamond grader uses both the naked eye and powerful magnification to observe and note clarity characteristics. If an inclusion or blemish can be seen with the naked eye, it will have the greatest affect on value. Nonetheless, even microscopic irregularities can impact appearance and durability, so diamonds are inspected under 10x magnification.
During this process, there are five main factors a grader is considering:
Size: the larger the characteristic, the more visible it will be.
Number: the more numerous, the more obvious.
Nature: is it an inclusion or a blemish? Inclusions are usually considered more important than blemishes.
Position: where is the characteristic located? For example, a diamond’s reflective properties can make one inclusion look like many, while an inclusion on the edge might not be very noticeable at all.
Color: most characteristics are white or clear, but some can be colored or dark. This is known as relief.
Even though the diamond is examined at all angles, whatever is visible face-up will be the most important. However, it’s important to keep in mind that the grader isn’t thinking about aesthetics alone. Diamonds may be the toughest material on earth, but they can still suffer damage. When fractures and cavities are graded—especially if they’re large—the future durability of the diamond is considered.
GIA Clarity Scale
After all the clarity characteristics are observed and documented, the actual grade is assigned. The more effect they have on durability and appearance, the lower the final grade will be. There are eleven possible grades, ranging from Flawless (FL) to Included (I1). Check out the interactive tool below to see examples of each!
The Bottom Line
It’s always important to remember that diamond grades are highly technical and not an “objective” standard of beauty. When a diamond is graded Flawless and earns a hefty price tag, it’s ultimately about rarity.
Believe it or not, only about 2% of gem quality diamonds earn the official Flawless grade. In fact, most diamonds found in stores today are between VS and SI, yet most people would think they’re Flawless!
As you’ve learned today, inclusions and blemishes can be quite natural and completely invisible to the naked eye. Yet, even when they’re intentional, accidental or quite prominent, they aren’t necessarily undesirable. It all comes down to personal preferences.
For some, a Flawless diamond created in the lab or by mother nature might be the pinnacle of beauty. For others, a diamond with a unique pattern of dots or lines will feel one-of-a-kind and truly special—indeed, it is one-of-a-kind, as no two diamonds are alike!
If you missed our other posts about the 4C’s, be sure to read how cut and color are graded too! If you have any questions about the 4C’s or diamonds in general, we’d love to help you further. Why not contact us or pop into one of our stores? You can also browse our extensive collection of diamonds right here on our website!
When you hear the word “diamond,” what’s the first image that comes to mind? If you’re like most people, you might imagine a dazzling colorless gemstone—but did you know that truly colorless diamonds are extremely rare? Not only do most diamonds have a tint, but they can be vividly colored too! Today we’ll take at the look at how a diamond’s color is graded as part of the 4C’s.
The Normal Range
Most diamonds fall within the colorless to yellow, brown or gray range – GIA.edu
While diamonds can be any color of the rainbow and more, most fall within a certain spectrum. The vast majority of diamonds available today range from colorless to light yellow, brown or gray. You can think of this spectrum as the “normal range.”
Trace elements—like nitrogen or boron—that enter the diamond as it forms are mostly responsible for this range of color, but the stone’s crystal structure can also play a role. When intense pressure distorts a diamond’s crystal structure, hues like brown, pink, red and purple can appear. It’s only when a diamond’s chemical and crystal composition are close to perfect that colorlessness results. Otherwise, at least a faint tint will be detectable.
The GIA normal range color scale
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed the most popular grading system in the US, so we’re going to use their scale.
For diamonds in the normal color range, an alphabetical spectrum from D (colorless) to Z (light yellow, brown or gray) is used. However, these letters don’t actually refer to specific colors. Instead, they simply mean that the diamond falls within a precise range of color. Therefore, two diamonds which are both graded H can actually look a bit different from each other.
Nonetheless, these grades are very technical. In fact, it’s typically only the experts who can tell a D diamond from an H diamond when it’s mounted in jewelry. Indeed, even diamonds graded K, L or M will usually appear quite colorless if they’re under 0.5ct.
When it comes to this scale, you can typically expect a diamond’s value to correlate with how colorless it is. The closer a diamond gets to a D grade, the more valuable it will be. However, when a diamond is graded below a Z, that’s no longer true. In fact, these special diamonds are valued for their color—not their lack of it! Let’s take a look at them next.
Fancy Color
Check out these blue, yellow, aqua and pink fancy color diamonds! – GIA.edu
If a diamond doesn’t fall within the normal range, it’s considered fancy color. This includes black, blue, red, green, vivid yellow and much more. These diamonds are very rare in nature and are valued accordingly. Believe it or not, the entire world only produces a few thousand carats of fancy colors each year! When it comes to grading them, three qualities are considered: hue, tone, and saturation.
Hue is simply the diamond’s color category. These categories can be a single color (like red or blue) or some combination (like reddish-orange or bluish-green). Tone refers to the color’s lightness or darkness, while saturation (sometimes called intensity) is the color’s strength and purity. You can see the interplay between these qualities in the chart below.
The GIA fancy color grading scale
The GIA fancy color scale ranges from faint to fancy deep, but you can’t look to the very top or very bottom of this chart to determine value. Instead, the most valuable grades are found near the middle, with fancy vivid being the most valuable of all. Why? As always, it’s about rarity. Fancy color diamonds with super high saturation and a light to medium tone are extremely hard to find, and their price will always reflect this.
Examples of different yellow diamond grades, ranging from fancy light to fancy vivid – GIA.edu
However, it’s important to note that what these grades actually look like is completely dependent on the stone’s hue. Say you’re comparing two fancy vivid diamonds: one yellow and one blue. You may notice that the blue diamond appears paler and less saturated than the yellow one—yet they have the same grade! Why? Again, it’s all about rarity.
Believe it or not, each hue has it’s own spectrum of possible saturations and tones, so the grading scale is reinterpreted to reflect these differences. It simply wouldn’t make sense to grade blue diamonds by comparing them to how saturated or intense yellow diamonds can be. Instead, they are graded against other blue diamonds—which happen to be much harder to find than yellow ones!
At first, this may seem a bit complicated, but it actually helps to keep things simple! No matter the hue, fancy vivid is like a D rating on the normal range scale—it’s the most valuable simply because it’s the most rare.
If you ever start to get confused, just remember: grading isn’t about ranking how beautiful a given diamond is—a diamond of any hue, tone or saturation can be absolutely breathtaking. It’s all about rarity.
Color Enhancements
Thanks to modern technology, the color of a diamond can sometimes be changed! We won’t get into how this scientific marvel is achieved in this post—you can read our article about diamond treatments here—but these treatments do affect value, and I bet you can guess why. That’s right—we’re talking about rarity!
Though these treatments can make a diamond colorless, black, or practically any color of the rainbow, they will be considered less valuable than their natural counterparts—sometimes the difference in value can be well over 50%! As always, it’s because naturally colored and colorless diamonds are more rare. Nonetheless, these treatments can sometimes increase the value of a diamond well beyond what it would fetch had it not been treated.
If a diamond has undergone any treatments, it will be disclosed on the diamond’s grading report. This makes it easy to understand why two diamonds that look almost identical are valued so differently! Let’s dive into how that report is created.
The Grading Process
So, we’ve seen what the possible grades are, but how are they actually determined? After all, there are so many possible tints and colors, plus so many different conditions under which to view them. That’s why super precise methods have been developed by GIA and other labs around the globe. Even though these methods differ somewhat for the normal range vs. fancy color, they share most of the same steps.
Chiefly, diamonds of any color are graded relative to other diamonds of known color. These are called master stones, because they’re considered the standard for each hue. Master stones make it much easier to determine exactly where a given diamond ranks on the possible color scale.
An example of GIA master stones
Next, the lighting conditions are perfectly controlled. Graders typically work in a rather dark room with a special light source that’s optimized for color perception. Then, both the master stones and the diamond to be graded are turned upside down. Why? Because this minimizes reflections, which can alter the way the color appears.
However, fancy color diamonds are not turned upside down when graded. That’s because the way a diamond is cut can influence the way its color appears too! Therefore, it’s actually more accurate to grade fancy colors face up.
Today, special instruments have been developed to aid in the process of grading, but they’re not 100% accurate. Believe it or not, nothing can quite beat the precision and accuracy of the well-trained human eye—at least for now!
The Bottom Line
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
For diamond color, that saying has never been more true. Whether you’d like a rare pink diamond or a colorless classic, it’s all about what you find most alluring. The price, however, is a carefully considered valuation, and now you know how and why!
If you missed our last 4C’s post about cut, why not check it out now and find out how that quality is graded too? Next time, we’ll explain how a diamond’s clarity is graded, so be sure to stay tuned!
In the meantime, why not stop by one of our stores and see our collection of loose diamonds and diamond jewelry up close and personal—even under our microscope! Or, you can view our extensive diamond collection online here and our diamond jewelry here!
Whether you’re on the hunt for the perfect diamond engagement ring or trying to evaluate antique diamond jewelry, there’s a lot to consider before making your decision. So many different factors go into grading and valuing diamonds, and it can all seem a bit overwhelming at first glance—but don’t worry! We’re here to make it easy.
You may have heard of something called “The 4C’s,” which is a short-hand way of describing the four major qualities used to assess a diamond’s value: cut, color, clarity and carat-weight. In fact, you may have read our overview of this process here! But if you’re still wondering exactly how to make sense of it all, we’ll be giving you an in-depth look at each quality over the next few weeks right here on our blog.
Today we’re going to go over Cut, which is probably the most complicated—and sometimes underrated—of all the diamond grading qualities.
Cut Style vs. Cut Quality
When you hear the term “cut” in relation to diamonds, it can refer to two different things. First, there’s the shape and faceting style, which is typically categorized as either “round brilliant cut” or “fancy cut.” Second, there’s the cut quality—the diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish—which is what “cut” refers to in the 4C’s. However, that doesn’t mean that cut style has no effect on value.
There’s a vast variety of cut styles available today, allowing more individuality than ever in jewelry making. You’re probably familiar with the classic round brilliant cut and popular fancy cuts like the emerald or princess cut, but if you dabble in antique or custom jewelry you’re likely to come across styles you won’t find in your average jewelry store! Antique styles like the rose cut or mine cut are rare today, while modern diamond cutters have been producing completely new styles that resemble flowers, butterflies, and more!
This ring features a princess cut diamond at the center accented by a halo of round diamonds plus four baguette diamonds on the shank – available here!
Though you should always choose the diamond cut style that suits your personal preference, it’s good to keep in mind that the relative popularity of certain shapes and how labor-intensive cutting can be has an effect on value. The round brilliant cut has been the most popular shape for over a century, and lots of time and energy has been put into making sure it is cut to exacting standards. Therefore, it’s no surprise that its price reflects its special status. For example, a round brilliant cut diamond with the exact same 4C’s grade as a marquise cut diamond will actually cost more. Likewise, especially rare and unique cuts will also fetch more on the market.
All that being said, the actual cut quality—no matter the shape chosen—has the most impact on overall value, so let’s take a look at how it’s graded.
Cut Quality
From left to right, these diamond cuts were graded Excellent, Good, and Poor – GIA.edu
The cut quality of a diamond really stands out in the 4C’s because it has the greatest single influence over the brilliance of the stone—plus, with the exception of lab-grown diamonds, it’s the only quality we have much control over! A skilled gem cutter can make all the difference in the world when it comes to bringing out a diamond’s signature beauty.
As specified above, cut quality is determined by proportions, symmetry, and polish. Today, diamond cutters use precision instruments so that ideal proportions and angles can be achieved which maximize the brilliance (reflection), dispersion (fire) and scintillation (sparkle) of the diamond. Basically, all those facets (flat, polished surfaces) gather light from all directions and then reflect it back to us, producing that dazzling effect only a well-cut diamond can produce! Let’s dive a little deeper into just how that dazzle is measured.
Brilliance
Brilliance is the total intensity or amount of light that is reflected from both the diamond’s surface and interior. The awesome thing about transparent gemstones is that light isn’t just reflecting off the surface—like it does on pearls or jade—it’s also being reflected from inside the stone!
Dispersion
Dispersion is what happens when white light is split into a rainbow effect, like what you see when light enters a prism. When it comes to diamonds, this stunning display of color is known as “fire.”
Scintillation
Scintillation sounds complicated, but it’s really just that dazzling sparkle you see when you move a diamond around! The sparkling can vary based on the pattern of light and dark areas in the diamond.
Those are the basic optical effects a diamond grader is looking for, but the grading process actually gets much more technical as it proceeds. Taking a look at the anatomy of a cut diamond will help show us just how precise it gets and why these technical details not only maximize the beauty of the diamond, but also play an important role in its durability.
Features of Cut
Profile of a Round Brilliant Diamond – GIA.edu
Almost all cut diamonds have two main parts: the crown (the upper part) and the pavilion (the lower part). The angles and depths of these two parts are measured against ideal percentages which have been found to produce the most dazzling effects. Where the crown and pavilion meet is called the girdle, which is the widest part of the diamond. The width of the girdle is important because it acts as the setting edge when the diamond is secured in a piece of jewelry, but a balance must be struck.
If the girdle is too thick, the diamond will appear smaller than its carat-weight would seem to indicate and may actually be difficult to set into jewelry. However, if the girdle is too thin, the diamond will be at an increased risk of chipping which is a major risk to the longevity of the stone. Therefore, a width somewhere in the middle is usually preferred, with round brilliant cuts leaning more towards a thinner girdle and fancy cuts leaning more towards a thicker girdle.
Similarly, the culet facet—which is a cut at the base of the diamond—shouldn’t be too small or too big. Too small (or nonexistent) and it won’t protect the base of the diamond from chipping. Too large, however, and it will appear to be a big black spot in the middle of the diamond!
Overall, the main thing a diamond grader is looking for here is symmetry and proportion in accordance with the ideals for each shape. Is the table slightly off-set or precisely centered? Is the girdle wavy or perfectly straight? Are the crown angles exactly the same around the entire diamond or do they vary? Is the pavilion angle too steep or too shallow? The more symmetrical, proportional and ideal these measurements are, the higher the diamond will be graded. Let’s take a look at what those grades actually are.
Cut Grades
Diamond grading examples – GIA.edu
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed the strictest diamond grading scale, and it’s their standards we’re going to go by here. Diamond cuts are graded on a scale of Excellent to Poor, taking into account all the factors detailed above. The profile diagrams next to each diamond in our example will help us compare and contrast each stone and easily see why their grades vary so much.
For example, when comparing the Excellent diamond against the Good diamond, you may notice that the Good example has a shallower crown and pavilion, which contribute to its poorer optical performance (note how much darker the Good example appears when compared to the Excellent example). You may also notice that the pattern of dark and light areas in the Good example are not as symmetrical as in the Excellent example.
All of these issues are especially pronounced in the Poor example—we can see that not only are the proportions quite different from the others, but that the girdle is extremely thick as well. The result? A rather dark diamond that will appear smaller than its carat-weight would suggest and will never sparkle quite like the others. These are the tell-tale signs of a poor-quality cut.
The other quality a diamond grader would be looking at is the polish of the diamond’s facets. Basically, the facets should be smooth and lustrous, or else the diamond’s reflections won’t be crisp and can even contribute to trapping oil and dirt—major hindrances to achieving that coveted sparkle! Indeed, a poor polish job will make an otherwise lovely diamond look quite dull.
All of these factors are studied under microscopes, carefully measured, and then precisely calculated before assigning the diamond its final cut grade. As you might expect, the higher the cut grade, the higher the value of the diamond will soar. However, it’s not just because Excellent and Very Good diamonds are more dazzling; it’s also because they necessitate sacrificing more of the original raw diamond. Every facet has a cost, and a quality cut ensures that these sacrifices are not in vain.
Check out the interactive tool below to see even more detailed examples of all the cut grades!
Bottom Line
Cut quality doesn’t always receive the love it deserves when it comes to producing dazzling diamonds, but now you know how important it really is! The standards of diamond cutting are no accident—they’re our human contribution to these gorgeous gifts from nature. Combining all we’ve learned about mathematical angles, proportions, and the interplay of light, we can shape these stunning objects of fascination and desire, revealing more and more of their unrivaled beauty as the field of diamond cutting continues to advance.
Next up, we’ll tackle the grading process for Color, so make sure to check back soon! In the meantime, why not stop by one ofour stores and see our collection of loose diamonds and diamond jewelry up close and personal—even under our microscope! Or, you can view our extensive diamond collection online here and our diamond jewelry here!
When it comes to gemstones like emeralds and rubies, chemical and physical treatments are very common, but did you know that diamonds are sometimes treated too? If you’ve ever dabbled in the world of diamonds, you may have come across treated diamonds and wondered what was done to them. Today we’ll dive into exactly what these treatments are and how they can alter or improve a diamond’s clarity and color.
Clarity Treatments
There are two main types of clarity treatments commonly used today: laser drilling and fracture filling.
Laser Drilling
Almost all natural diamonds have dark spots and imperfections—known as inclusions—which can impact the stone’s overall appearance. The goal of laser drilling is to minimize these inclusions and maximize clarity. Using a super high-powered laser, a tiny channel is burned into the diamond to reach the targeted inclusion. Then, a very strong acid is injected into the channel to bleach the inclusion. Generally, the channel is completely invisible to the naked eye, and the appearance of the diamond is dramatically improved!
Fracture Filling
Diamonds are known for their amazing strength and durability, but did you know they can break? Usually these fractures occur while the diamond is formed within the earth, leaving cracks both inside and on the surface of the stone. These cracks are another type of inclusion that can affect clarity, and that’s where the fracture filling process can save the day!
If the break reaches the surface of the diamond, it can simply be filled in with a special glass-like material. The filler mimics the color and transparency of the stone, making the crack seem to disappear. If the break is enclosed within the stone, the laser drilling process is used to reach the fracture so that it can be injected with filling. In both of these scenarios, the appearance of the diamond is improved, but the cracks may still be visible under certain lighting.
An example of a diamond before and after the fracture filling process. Note the dramatically reduced appearance of the inclusion near the center – GIA.edu
It’s important to note that these processes are almost always considered cosmetic. What that means is that the actual clarity grade of the diamond—which is determined before treatment—is not improved by treating inclusions or filling cracks. That’s because the cracks and inclusions still technically exist; it’s only the appearance that has been altered.
A downside to this treatment is that ultrasonic cleaners and steamers can sometimes damage fracture fillings, so it’s important to clean them with more gentle methods. On the upside, however, a diamond which has received one or both of these treatments might look nearly identical to one that has not—yet will cost a lot less!
Color Treatments
The two main types of color treatments are irradiation and high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT).
Irradiation
Fancy color diamonds—like pink, blue, red, and yellow—are exceedingly rare in nature, so irradiation is used to produce more of them. Believe it or not, this treatment can occur in nuclear reactors or in machines known as linear accelerators. During treatment, the stone is subjected to controlled radiation, which changes the diamond’s color! The amount and type of radiation used is highly regulated, so there’s no need to worry—irradiated diamonds and gemstones are totally safe to wear!
A variety of irradiated diamonds – GIA.edu
Sometimes irradiated diamonds go through an additional step of intense heating in order to enhance or further alter their color. The red, orange and pink diamonds above are examples of what can be produced with this additional step!
High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT)
Another treatment connected to the energy sector, HPHT was actually developed by General Electric. By subjecting certain diamonds to HPHT, stunning results can be achieved, ranging from a black diamond to a nearly colorless one!
A brown diamond turned nearly colorless using HPHT – GIA.edu
Now, changing a brown diamond into a colorless one is really rare and only works about 1-2% of the time, but producing a black one is much more successful. Typically, diamonds with lots of fractures and inclusions are selected for this process. That’s because inclusions are usually just carbon trapped inside the stone, which will convert to graphite during the HPHT process. The effect? A diamond that appears as black as onyx, yet sparkles like only a diamond can!
So there you have it—the the basics of treated diamonds! Thanks to processes like these, it’s easier than ever to find the perfect diamond for you. Why not take a look at our extensive diamond collection online or pop into one of our stores to see a specific stone up close and personal? We’d love to see you soon!
When shopping for diamond or gemstone jewelry, simulants and synthetics are bound to catch your eye. These beautiful gems tend to cost a whole lot less than natural stones, yet they can look exactly the same! You might be wondering exactly what these stones are and how they differ from their natural counterparts. If so, you’re in luck! Today we dive into the differences between natural, synthetic and simulant gemstones so you can make the best choice for you!
Natural
A natural gemstone is just what it sounds like: it’s any gemstone that was formed by nature. Many gems—like diamonds and rubies—are formed by the earth itself, while others—like pearls and abalone—are formed within mollusks and oysters. All of these processes are “natural” because human beings didn’t play a role in them.
This 18kt white gold ring features five natural rubies surrounded by diamonds – available here!
These natural processes are usually very slow and only happen under the right conditions. Plus, after the natural gem is formed, intensive mining is usually required to extract it. In the case of natural pearls, underwater diving is necessary to collect oysters—none of which are guaranteed to have pearls within them.
In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to find truly natural pearls on the market today. That’s because finding and harvesting wild oysters is so difficult and labor intensive that it simply isn’t done much anymore. Instead, pearls are “cultured” on farms, which is what you will find in the vast majority of jewelry stores today. Cultured pearls are like natural pearls in every way except for their “seed.” In nature, an irritant just happens to enter the oyster, beginning the pearl-producing process. On a pearl farm, the “seed” is surgically implanted—but there’s still no guarantee a pearl will form!
All of these factors contribute greatly to the value of natural gemstones and pearls. Their price reflects not only the miracle of their existence, but also the amount of hard work required to bring that gem to you.
Synthetic
Synthetic gemstones are chemically and physically identical to their natural counterparts, but they aren’t formed naturally. Instead, modern science and technology are put to use to create gemstones in the lab! That’s why synthetic gemstones are sometimes called “lab-created” as well.
If you’re a lover of flawless gemstones, synthetic or lab-created gems might be for you! That’s because lab conditions can be completely ideal, allowing the gemstone to grow without interference from contaminants or sudden changes in pressure and temperature. The result is a perfect stone—at a fraction of the price!
This 14kt yellow gold ring features a lab-created emerald at the center surrounded by a halo of diamonds – available here!
That being said, lots of people love inclusions in their gemstones. They can add a sense of uniqueness, and some natural gemstones—like emeralds—are rarely found without them. Luckily, lab-created gems can be formed with inclusions too. That way, you can get the natural look without the natural price!
Today, labs can grow almost any gemstone under the sun—including diamonds—so they’re definitely something worth considering. Synthetics can give you greater carat sizes, higher quality and a wider range of colors at a lower price.
Simulant
A simulant is not the same as a synthetic, but people often get these terms confused. A simulant simply looks like a particular stone, but it is not chemically identical. For example, a natural emerald and a synthetic emerald are both emeralds. The only difference between them is how they were formed. An emerald simulant, however, is not an emerald. It is simply a green stone that looks similar to an emerald. For this reason, simulants are sometimes called “imitation” stones.
Cubic zirconia (CZ) is probably the best known simulant today, as it is commonly used to mimic the look of a diamond. However, a CZ is not a diamond. These two glittering gemstones are made of completely different minerals and have many optical differences. In fact, CZ is an entirely synthetic gem in its own right—since it is made exclusively in the lab—but it is not a synthetic diamond.
This stunning sterling silver engagement ring features dazzling cubic zirconia – available here!
Over the years, many colorless gems have been used as diamond simulants, because high-quality diamonds can be very expensive. White sapphires, zircon, white topaz, and even glass have all been used as affordable imitation diamonds.
Today, moissanite is a very popular diamond simulant. Like CZ, moissanite is another purely lab-grown gemstone—at least on earth! Super rare bits of natural moissanite have actually been found in meteorites, but you won’t find those in your local jewelry store.
The benefits of simulants are similar to the benefits of synthetics—you can get the look you want for less! A main difference to consider, however, is that a simulant’s hardness and durability will likely differ from a natural or synthetic stone. This can be good or bad, depending on what you’re needs are.
Say, for example, you love the look of opal but are concerned about having to be careful with it. A much more durable opal simulant could be perfect for you! On the other hand, no simulant can compare to a natural or synthetic diamond’s durability. Diamonds rank in at the very top of the Mohs scale of hardness, while CZ scores 8-8.5 and moissanite 9.25.
The Bottom Line
When it comes to choosing the gemstone for you, the most important things to keep in mind are cost, durability, and your desired look. For some, absolutely nothing compares to the miracle of a natural gemstone. Knowing that it was formed by the earth or inside a living thing is truly special and unique.
For others, the scientific marvel of a synthetic gemstone is hard to beat. It’s astonishing that laboratories can replicate the immensely complex processes required to form gemstones—to say nothing of how much faster they can do the job!
For others still, it’s more about the way the stone looks and holds up day-to-day. Whether you’re simply looking for a specific color or a durable look-alike, simulants can be a great affordable choice.
At the end of the day, it’s all about what you prefer! If you’d like to learn more or need help deciding, we’d love to be of service! We can even show you natural, synthetic and simulant gemstones side-by-side for easy comparison. Drop by one of our stores or contact us for more information. We hope to see you soon!
