• close up of round and baguette diamonds
    Diamonds,  Education

    The 4C’s: Cut

    Whether you’re on the hunt for the perfect diamond engagement ring or trying to evaluate antique diamond jewelry, there’s a lot to consider before making your decision. So many different factors go into grading and valuing diamonds, and it can all seem a bit overwhelming at first glance—but don’t worry! We’re here to make it easy.

    You may have heard of something called “The 4C’s,” which is a short-hand way of describing the four major qualities used to assess a diamond’s value: cut, color, clarity and carat-weight. In fact, you may have read our overview of this process here! But if you’re still wondering exactly how to make sense of it all, we’ll be giving you an in-depth look at each quality over the next few weeks right here on our blog.

    Today we’re going to go over Cut, which is probably the most complicated—and sometimes underrated—of all the diamond grading qualities.

    Cut Style vs. Cut Quality

    When you hear the term “cut” in relation to diamonds, it can refer to two different things. First, there’s the shape and faceting style, which is typically categorized as either “round brilliant cut” or “fancy cut.” Second, there’s the cut quality—the diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish—which is what “cut” refers to in the 4C’s. However, that doesn’t mean that cut style has no effect on value.

    There’s a vast variety of cut styles available today, allowing more individuality than ever in jewelry making. You’re probably familiar with the classic round brilliant cut and popular fancy cuts like the emerald or princess cut, but if you dabble in antique or custom jewelry you’re likely to come across styles you won’t find in your average jewelry store! Antique styles like the rose cut or mine cut are rare today, while modern diamond cutters have been producing completely new styles that resemble flowers, butterflies, and more!

    white gold diamond ring featuring princess, round brilliant and baguette diamonds
    This ring features a princess cut diamond at the center accented by a halo of round diamonds plus four baguette diamonds on the shank – available here!

    Though you should always choose the diamond cut style that suits your personal preference, it’s good to keep in mind that the relative popularity of certain shapes and how labor-intensive cutting can be has an effect on value. The round brilliant cut has been the most popular shape for over a century, and lots of time and energy has been put into making sure it is cut to exacting standards. Therefore, it’s no surprise that its price reflects its special status. For example, a round brilliant cut diamond with the exact same 4C’s grade as a marquise cut diamond will actually cost more. Likewise, especially rare and unique cuts will also fetch more on the market.

    All that being said, the actual cut quality—no matter the shape chosen—has the most impact on overall value, so let’s take a look at how it’s graded.

    Cut Quality

    Diamonds graded excellent, good and poor
    From left to right, these diamond cuts were graded Excellent, Good, and Poor – GIA.edu

    The cut quality of a diamond really stands out in the 4C’s because it has the greatest single influence over the brilliance of the stone—plus, with the exception of lab-grown diamonds, it’s the only quality we have much control over! A skilled gem cutter can make all the difference in the world when it comes to bringing out a diamond’s signature beauty.

    As specified above, cut quality is determined by proportions, symmetry, and polish. Today, diamond cutters use precision instruments so that ideal proportions and angles can be achieved which maximize the brilliance (reflection), dispersion (fire) and scintillation (sparkle) of the diamond. Basically, all those facets (flat, polished surfaces) gather light from all directions and then reflect it back to us, producing that dazzling effect only a well-cut diamond can produce! Let’s dive a little deeper into just how that dazzle is measured.


    Brilliance is the total intensity or amount of light that is reflected from both the diamond’s surface and interior. The awesome thing about transparent gemstones is that light isn’t just reflecting off the surface—like it does on pearls or jade—it’s also being reflected from inside the stone!


    Dispersion is what happens when white light is split into a rainbow effect, like what you see when light enters a prism. When it comes to diamonds, this stunning display of color is known as “fire.”


    Scintillation sounds complicated, but it’s really just that dazzling sparkle you see when you move a diamond around! The sparkling can vary based on the pattern of light and dark areas in the diamond.

    Those are the basic optical effects a diamond grader is looking for, but the grading process actually gets much more technical as it proceeds. Taking a look at the anatomy of a cut diamond will help show us just how precise it gets and why these technical details not only maximize the beauty of the diamond, but also play an important role in its durability.

    Features of Cut

    Profile of a Round Brilliant Diamond – GIA.edu

    Almost all cut diamonds have two main parts: the crown (the upper part) and the pavilion (the lower part). The angles and depths of these two parts are measured against ideal percentages which have been found to produce the most dazzling effects. Where the crown and pavilion meet is called the girdle, which is the widest part of the diamond. The width of the girdle is important because it acts as the setting edge when the diamond is secured in a piece of jewelry, but a balance must be struck.

    If the girdle is too thick, the diamond will appear smaller than its carat-weight would seem to indicate and may actually be difficult to set into jewelry. However, if the girdle is too thin, the diamond will be at an increased risk of chipping which is a major risk to the longevity of the stone. Therefore, a width somewhere in the middle is usually preferred, with round brilliant cuts leaning more towards a thinner girdle and fancy cuts leaning more towards a thicker girdle.

    Similarly, the culet facet—which is a cut at the base of the diamond—shouldn’t be too small or too big. Too small (or nonexistent) and it won’t protect the base of the diamond from chipping. Too large, however, and it will appear to be a big black spot in the middle of the diamond!

    Overall, the main thing a diamond grader is looking for here is symmetry and proportion in accordance with the ideals for each shape. Is the table slightly off-set or precisely centered? Is the girdle wavy or perfectly straight? Are the crown angles exactly the same around the entire diamond or do they vary? Is the pavilion angle too steep or too shallow? The more symmetrical, proportional and ideal these measurements are, the higher the diamond will be graded. Let’s take a look at what those grades actually are.

    Cut Grades

    Diamond grading examples – GIA.edu

    The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed the strictest diamond grading scale, and it’s their standards we’re going to go by here. Diamond cuts are graded on a scale of Excellent to Poor, taking into account all the factors detailed above. The profile diagrams next to each diamond in our example will help us compare and contrast each stone and easily see why their grades vary so much.

    For example, when comparing the Excellent diamond against the Good diamond, you may notice that the Good example has a shallower crown and pavilion, which contribute to its poorer optical performance (note how much darker the Good example appears when compared to the Excellent example). You may also notice that the pattern of dark and light areas in the Good example are not as symmetrical as in the Excellent example.

    All of these issues are especially pronounced in the Poor example—we can see that not only are the proportions quite different from the others, but that the girdle is extremely thick as well. The result? A rather dark diamond that will appear smaller than its carat-weight would suggest and will never sparkle quite like the others. These are the tell-tale signs of a poor-quality cut.

    The other quality a diamond grader would be looking at is the polish of the diamond’s facets. Basically, the facets should be smooth and lustrous, or else the diamond’s reflections won’t be crisp and can even contribute to trapping oil and dirt—major hindrances to achieving that coveted sparkle! Indeed, a poor polish job will make an otherwise lovely diamond look quite dull.

    All of these factors are studied under microscopes, carefully measured, and then precisely calculated before assigning the diamond its final cut grade. As you might expect, the higher the cut grade, the higher the value of the diamond will soar. However, it’s not just because Excellent and Very Good diamonds are more dazzling; it’s also because they necessitate sacrificing more of the original raw diamond. Every facet has a cost, and a quality cut ensures that these sacrifices are not in vain.

    Check out the interactive tool below to see even more detailed examples of all the cut grades!

    Bottom Line

    Cut quality doesn’t always receive the love it deserves when it comes to producing dazzling diamonds, but now you know how important it really is! The standards of diamond cutting are no accident—they’re our human contribution to these gorgeous gifts from nature. Combining all we’ve learned about mathematical angles, proportions, and the interplay of light, we can shape these stunning objects of fascination and desire, revealing more and more of their unrivaled beauty as the field of diamond cutting continues to advance.

    Next up, we’ll tackle the grading process for Color, so make sure to check back soon! In the meantime, why not stop by one of our stores and see our collection of loose diamonds and diamond jewelry up close and personal—even under our microscope! Or, you can view our extensive diamond collection online here and our diamond jewelry here!

  • fancy yellow diamond ring
    Diamonds,  Education

    Treated Diamonds

    When it comes to gemstones like emeralds and rubies, chemical and physical treatments are very common, but did you know that diamonds are sometimes treated too? If you’ve ever dabbled in the world of diamonds, you may have come across treated diamonds and wondered what was done to them. Today we’ll dive into exactly what these treatments are and how they can alter or improve a diamond’s clarity and color.

    Clarity Treatments

    There are two main types of clarity treatments commonly used today: laser drilling and fracture filling.

    Laser Drilling

    Almost all natural diamonds have dark spots and imperfections—known as inclusions—which can impact the stone’s overall appearance. The goal of laser drilling is to minimize these inclusions and maximize clarity. Using a super high-powered laser, a tiny channel is burned into the diamond to reach the targeted inclusion. Then, a very strong acid is injected into the channel to bleach the inclusion. Generally, the channel is completely invisible to the naked eye, and the appearance of the diamond is dramatically improved!

    Fracture Filling

    Diamonds are known for their amazing strength and durability, but did you know they can break? Usually these fractures occur while the diamond is formed within the earth, leaving cracks both inside and on the surface of the stone. These cracks are another type of inclusion that can affect clarity, and that’s where the fracture filling process can save the day!

    If the break reaches the surface of the diamond, it can simply be filled in with a special glass-like material. The filler mimics the color and transparency of the stone, making the crack seem to disappear. If the break is enclosed within the stone, the laser drilling process is used to reach the fracture so that it can be injected with filling. In both of these scenarios, the appearance of the diamond is improved, but the cracks may still be visible under certain lighting.

    A diamond example before and after fracture filling.
    An example of a diamond before and after the fracture filling process. Note the dramatically reduced appearance of the inclusion near the center – GIA.edu

    It’s important to note that these processes are almost always considered cosmetic. What that means is that the actual clarity grade of the diamond—which is determined before treatment—is not improved by treating inclusions or filling cracks. That’s because the cracks and inclusions still technically exist; it’s only the appearance that has been altered.

    A downside to this treatment is that ultrasonic cleaners and steamers can sometimes damage fracture fillings, so it’s important to clean them with more gentle methods. On the upside, however, a diamond which has received one or both of these treatments might look nearly identical to one that has not—yet will cost a lot less!

    Color Treatments

    The two main types of color treatments are irradiation and high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT).


    Fancy color diamonds—like pink, blue, red, and yellow—are exceedingly rare in nature, so irradiation is used to produce more of them. Believe it or not, this treatment can occur in nuclear reactors or in machines known as linear accelerators. During treatment, the stone is subjected to controlled radiation, which changes the diamond’s color! The amount and type of radiation used is highly regulated, so there’s no need to worry—irradiated diamonds and gemstones are totally safe to wear!

    A variety of irradiated diamonds – GIA.edu

    Sometimes irradiated diamonds go through an additional step of intense heating in order to enhance or further alter their color. The red, orange and pink diamonds above are examples of what can be produced with this additional step!

    High-Pressure, High-Temperature (HPHT)

    Another treatment connected to the energy sector, HPHT was actually developed by General Electric. By subjecting certain diamonds to HPHT, stunning results can be achieved, ranging from a black diamond to a nearly colorless one!

    A brown diamond turned nearly colorless using HPHT – GIA.edu

    Now, changing a brown diamond into a colorless one is really rare and only works about 1-2% of the time, but producing a black one is much more successful. Typically, diamonds with lots of fractures and inclusions are selected for this process. That’s because inclusions are usually just carbon trapped inside the stone, which will convert to graphite during the HPHT process. The effect? A diamond that appears as black as onyx, yet sparkles like only a diamond can!

    So there you have it—the the basics of treated diamonds! Thanks to processes like these, it’s easier than ever to find the perfect diamond for you. Why not take a look at our extensive diamond collection online or pop into one of our stores to see a specific stone up close and personal? We’d love to see you soon!

  • diamond in tweezers
    Diamonds,  Education,  Gemstones

    Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Simulant

    When shopping for diamond or gemstone jewelry, simulants and synthetics are bound to catch your eye. These beautiful gems tend to cost a whole lot less than natural stones, yet they can look exactly the same! You might be wondering exactly what these stones are and how they differ from their natural counterparts. If so, you’re in luck! Today we dive into the differences between natural, synthetic and simulant gemstones so you can make the best choice for you!


    A natural gemstone is just what it sounds like: it’s any gemstone that was formed by nature. Many gems—like diamonds and rubies—are formed by the earth itself, while others—like pearls and abalone—are formed within mollusks and oysters. All of these processes are “natural” because human beings didn’t play a role in them.

    This 18kt white gold ring features five natural rubies surrounded by diamonds – available here!

    These natural processes are usually very slow and only happen under the right conditions. Plus, after the natural gem is formed, intensive mining is usually required to extract it. In the case of natural pearls, underwater diving is necessary to collect oysters—none of which are guaranteed to have pearls within them.

    In fact, you’d be hard-pressed to find truly natural pearls on the market today. That’s because finding and harvesting wild oysters is so difficult and labor intensive that it simply isn’t done much anymore. Instead, pearls are “cultured” on farms, which is what you will find in the vast majority of jewelry stores today. Cultured pearls are like natural pearls in every way except for their “seed.” In nature, an irritant just happens to enter the oyster, beginning the pearl-producing process. On a pearl farm, the “seed” is surgically implanted—but there’s still no guarantee a pearl will form!

    All of these factors contribute greatly to the value of natural gemstones and pearls. Their price reflects not only the miracle of their existence, but also the amount of hard work required to bring that gem to you.


    Synthetic gemstones are chemically and physically identical to their natural counterparts, but they aren’t formed naturally. Instead, modern science and technology are put to use to create gemstones in the lab! That’s why synthetic gemstones are sometimes called “lab-created” as well.

    If you’re a lover of flawless gemstones, synthetic or lab-created gems might be for you! That’s because lab conditions can be completely ideal, allowing the gemstone to grow without interference from contaminants or sudden changes in pressure and temperature. The result is a perfect stone—at a fraction of the price!

    This 14kt yellow gold ring features a lab-created emerald at the center surrounded by a halo of diamonds – available here!

    That being said, lots of people love inclusions in their gemstones. They can add a sense of uniqueness, and some natural gemstones—like emeralds—are rarely found without them. Luckily, lab-created gems can be formed with inclusions too. That way, you can get the natural look without the natural price!

    Today, labs can grow almost any gemstone under the sun—including diamonds—so they’re definitely something worth considering. Synthetics can give you greater carat sizes, higher quality and a wider range of colors at a lower price.


    A simulant is not the same as a synthetic, but people often get these terms confused. A simulant simply looks like a particular stone, but it is not chemically identical. For example, a natural emerald and a synthetic emerald are both emeralds. The only difference between them is how they were formed. An emerald simulant, however, is not an emerald. It is simply a green stone that looks similar to an emerald. For this reason, simulants are sometimes called “imitation” stones.

    Cubic zirconia (CZ) is probably the best known simulant today, as it is commonly used to mimic the look of a diamond. However, a CZ is not a diamond. These two glittering gemstones are made of completely different minerals and have many optical differences. In fact, CZ is an entirely synthetic gem in its own right—since it is made exclusively in the lab—but it is not a synthetic diamond.

    This stunning sterling silver engagement ring features dazzling cubic zirconia – available here!

    Over the years, many colorless gems have been used as diamond simulants, because high-quality diamonds can be very expensive. White sapphires, zircon, white topaz, and even glass have all been used as affordable imitation diamonds.

    Today, moissanite is a very popular diamond simulant. Like CZ, moissanite is another purely lab-grown gemstone—at least on earth! Super rare bits of natural moissanite have actually been found in meteorites, but you won’t find those in your local jewelry store.

    The benefits of simulants are similar to the benefits of synthetics—you can get the look you want for less! A main difference to consider, however, is that a simulant’s hardness and durability will likely differ from a natural or synthetic stone. This can be good or bad, depending on what you’re needs are.

    Say, for example, you love the look of opal but are concerned about having to be careful with it. A much more durable opal simulant could be perfect for you! On the other hand, no simulant can compare to a natural or synthetic diamond’s durability. Diamonds rank in at the very top of the Mohs scale of hardness, while CZ scores 8-8.5 and moissanite 9.25.

    The Bottom Line

    When it comes to choosing the gemstone for you, the most important things to keep in mind are cost, durability, and your desired look. For some, absolutely nothing compares to the miracle of a natural gemstone. Knowing that it was formed by the earth or inside a living thing is truly special and unique.

    For others, the scientific marvel of a synthetic gemstone is hard to beat. It’s astonishing that laboratories can replicate the immensely complex processes required to form gemstones—to say nothing of how much faster they can do the job!

    For others still, it’s more about the way the stone looks and holds up day-to-day. Whether you’re simply looking for a specific color or a durable look-alike, simulants can be a great affordable choice.

    At the end of the day, it’s all about what you prefer! If you’d like to learn more or need help deciding, we’d love to be of service! We can even show you natural, synthetic and simulant gemstones side-by-side for easy comparison. Drop by one of our stores or contact us for more information. We hope to see you soon!

  • Education,  Watch & Jewelry Repair,  Watches

    Watch Water Resistance – What does it really mean?

    Watches have come a long way since they were first invented, and one of the most useful improvements is water resistance. After all, water is a vital part of life! However, not all water resistant watches are created equal, and it’s important to understand what your watch can safely handle.

    There Are No “Waterproof” Watches

    It cannot be stressed enough that no watch is truly “waterproof.” Even those made especially for deep sea scuba divers are “water resistant”—and that’s only if they are operated correctly and receive regular maintenance. That’s because no watch stays water resistant forever, and even a drop of water can wreak havoc on the inside of a watch! No matter what type of movement your watch has—mechanical, quartz or purely digital—water is its worst enemy.

    Therefore, if a watch is not stamped “Water Resistant” on its case back or dial, it is highly susceptible to water damage and must be protected from all amounts of liquid at all times. That includes daily scenarios like washing your hands or having the watch on the bathroom counter while you take a hot shower!

    Thankfully, the vast majority of watches today are at least somewhat water resistant, but there are many misconceptions surrounding what the ratings actually mean. Today, we hope to clear those up, so let’s dive in!

    It’s All About Pressure

    Watch water resistance is measured in meters (m), feet (ft), atmosphere (atm), and pressure (bar). The last two units of measurement are clues as to what water resistance actually means: pressure is being measured, not a specific depth.

    Now, that might seem confusing. Why say the watch has 30 meter or 100 feet water resistance if it can’t actually withstand those depths? To understand, we need to think about sea level.

    Most of us have heard the phrases “above sea level” or “below sea level,” which are simply referring to elevation in relation to the ocean. Elevation is important because the atmosphere around us changes as we descend below or ascend above the sea.

    Sea Level = 1 ATM or 1 bar

    At sea level, the atmospheric pressure is 1 ATM or 1 bar. As you travel higher, atmospheric pressure decreases, but the opposite is true when descending into water. In fact, the changes underwater are much more dramatic, because water is much more dense than air.

    Let’s say you make it to the very top of Mount Everest, which is 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) above sea level. Way up there, the atmospheric pressure is 0.333 ATM. Yet, descending just 10 meters (33 feet) below water brings the pressure up to 2 ATM!

    For every 10 meters you go underwater, atmospheric pressure increases by 1 ATM or 1 bar.

    So, when a watch is rated with a specific number of feet or meters, it’s not actually referring to depth, but rather the pressure typically experienced at that depth. Why is that distinction important? To find out, we need to look at how watches are assigned their ratings.

    Pressure Testing

    Once a watch is completely assembled, it’s not actually plunged into the sea to measure its water resistance. In fact, most are never tested in water at all! Instead, the watch is subjected to highly controlled air pressure to see how much it can withstand. This is basically a safer simulation of submersion.

    No matter which rating the watch receives, understand that it was determined under factory conditions. The watch was tested brand new, under steady temperatures, and was kept completely still. This is very different from the conditions in a pool or even in your shower.

    The simple motion of your arm moving through the water—to say nothing of the impact from diving or jumping into a pool—multiplies the pressure your watch is subjected to. The same is true of a high-powered shower head or even the kitchen faucet. That’s why you can’t take “30 meter water resistance” literally.

    With that in mind, let’s see what you can safely do at your watch’s water resistance rating.

    Water Resistant

    The case back of a ladies Movado watch that is stamped water resistant.
    This elegant Movado watch is stamped “water resistant” with no specific rating – available here!

    When you come across a watch with the “water resistant” stamp but no rating, you should try to protect it from moisture as much as possible. Unless the manufacturer offers a specific rating elsewhere, there’s no way to know for certain how much it can handle. Nonetheless, it should be able to withstand hand washing or a brief dash through the rain, but it should never be submerged.

    Indeed, to be on the safe side, it would best to remove the watch before doing the dishes or taking a hike in a heavy downpour. You might even consider keeping it out of the bathroom too, as steam can sometimes make its way inside the watch and cause damage.

    In some ways, you can think of these watches as pieces of fine, delicate jewelry—after all, you wouldn’t wear your pearls in the shower or wash the car wearing your opal ring. If there’s no water resistance rating, always play it safe.

    30m – 100ft – 3ATM – 3 bar

    The case back of a ladies Coach watch with 3ATM water resistance
    This pre-owned ladies Coach watch is rated 3ATM – available here!

    These four water resistance ratings are very common, and they all mean the same thing: this watch is “splash resistant.” That means it should be able to withstand splashes of water from washing your hands, walking in the rain or watering your garden, but it should never be submerged in water or worn in the shower.

    50m – 160ft – 5ATM – 5 bar

    The case back of a ladies Citizen watch with 50m water resistance
    This ladies Citizen watch is rated 5 bar – available here!

    These ratings indicate a little more water resistance than the ones above. You might think of these watches as being “super splash resistant,” as they are probably safe to wear in the shower or during a prolonged, fierce downpour. However, they still should not be purposefully submerged in water. Even though the watch would probably survive an accidentally dip into the sink, we recommend being safe rather than sorry.

    100m – 330ft – 10ATM – 10 bar

    The case back of a Tag Heuer Link automatic watch with 100m water resistance
    This pre-owned Tag Heuer Link watch is rated 100m and features a screw-down crown for extra protection – available here!

    If you’re looking for a watch you can submerge in water, start at this rating. Here, you can safely swim or snorkel, plus all the activities listed above without worrying! However, these watches might not be able to handle diving off a diving board and are definitely not safe for serious scuba diving. If you plan on doing either of those things, you’ll need to go at least one step up in water resistance.

    200m – 660ft – 20ATM – 20 bar

    A Citizen diver watch with 200m water resistance
    This men’s diver’s watch by Citizen features 200m water resistance – available here!

    Watches with these ratings are your entry level dive watches or for those who just want some extra peace of mind while swimming. They can better withstand the impact of diving off a diving board and can be worn safely at deeper depths. However, we would still recommend going up another level if you actually plan on doing deep sea scuba diving. Again, always be safe rather than sorry—especially if you love your watch!

    300m – 1000ft – 30ATM – 30 bar

    A Rolex Submariner with 300m water resistance
    Check out this pre-owned Rolex Submariner, featuring 300m water resistance – available here!

    Here, you’re safely within professional scuba diving territory, but many people opt for this rating just to swim or surf! The higher the water resistance rating, the more peace of mind you can have doing the activities you enjoy. In fact, professional dive watches can have water resistance ratings over 2000m! How’s that for peace of mind?

    Vulnerable Points of Entry

    A diagram showing where the crown and buttons/pushers are on a watch.
    You should never operate the crown or buttons in or near water

    There are two main challenges when it comes to making a watch water resistant: there must be a way to set the watch and a way to open it. Both of these necessities provide points of entry for water.

    Crown & Buttons

    The vast majority of timepieces have at least one crown, which is typically used to set the watch, and some feature a few buttons (sometimes called pushers). Never operate the crown or buttons in or near water.

    Pulling out the crown provides a direct path into the heart of your watch, so you should always make sure it’s completely pushed in or screwed down (if applicable). Even though buttons are typically sealed with gaskets, these seals do not last forever and can cause the same problem.

    If you ever notice the crown or buttons becoming loose, you should have your watch serviced as soon as possible. These parts are absolutely critical to maintaining water resistance and are usually the first points of failure.

    Case back

    Another vulnerable part of every timepiece is the case back, which allows for direct access to the inside of the watch. Some case backs simply snap into place while others are screwed in, but all types use a rubber gasket to ensure water resistance. However, like the gaskets used on buttons, these seals don’t last forever and will need to be replaced eventually.

    Under mild conditions, gaskets should last several years, but if you wear your watch in saltwater or subject it to extreme temperatures, they will fail much quicker. To maintain the utmost water resistance, have your gaskets checked every year.


    Lastly, there’s the crystal, which is the clear covering on the face of the watch. Most watches just have one, but some automatics have a “viewing window” on the case back as well. Most crystals are sealed with gaskets as well, but you also have to watch out for cracks, chips and other damage.

    Always have damaged crystals promptly replaced. In addition to letting water inside, a broken crystal can send tiny shards of glass into your watch’s movement, causing costly damage.

    The Importance of High Quality, Regular Maintenance

    A watch getting ready for a battery replacement.
    At Service Jewelry & Repair, we can do everything from watch batteries to full movement services at our national repair center!

    Many people don’t realize that watches need more than just battery changes to stay in tip-top shape. Indeed, if you have a mechanical watch or one with a rechargeable capacitor, you may not realize maintenance is required at all! While all watches should have their movements serviced or at least checked regularly, water resistance is often forgotten until it’s too late.

    Seeing moisture under the crystal or watermarks on the dial are very noticeable signs of trouble, but sometimes you may not notice anything until the watch grinds to a halt. Suspecting a dead battery, you might bring it in for a replacement—only to find out the inside is rusted and a costly repair is needed!

    Don’t let this happen to your favorite watches. While there are no guarantees, having your watch regularly serviced and following our guidelines above (keep that crown pushed down!) can almost always prevent water damage.

    The SJR Difference

    A watchmaker's desk at our national repair center
    We’ve got all the tools of the trade at our national repair center!

    Every time we replace batteries or do movement services, we check the key things we’ve gone over with you today. Are the gaskets still in good shape? How about the crystal? Is the crown secure? Are there any signs of current or previous water damage?

    When it’s time to close it up again, we make sure it’s sealed up tight—but did you know we can do an extra step at our repair shop? There, we can perform a pressure test, much like the one performed when the watch was made! That way, you can be sure your watch is still as water resistant as its rating indicates. If you’re planning to ever submerge your watch or simply want the peace of mind, do not skip this step. Otherwise, there’s no way to truly know if your watch has become vulnerable.

    If you’d like to have a pressure test performed or want your watch completely checked over, you have a few convenient options! First, you can bring your watch into either of our stores, and we’ll send it off to our national repair center. Our friendly sales associates will keep you updated throughout the process, and as soon as it’s ready, you can pick it back up at the store!

    Another option is going directly through our repair center. Here, you can mail your timepiece in or even drop by in person. If you just want a battery change and/or pressure test, we can do it while you wait! Otherwise, we’ll let you know when it’s ready for pick up, or we can ship it back to you.

    We hope this article has cleared up the confusion around water resistance ratings, but if you have any questions, feel free to contact us!

    We hope to serve you soon!

  • example of high gloss powder coating
    About SJR,  Watch & Jewelry Repair

    Restore Your Watch with Expert Powder Coating

    If you keep up with watchmaking trends, you’ve probably seen lots of awesome designs featuring colored metals. Black-coated stainless steel is probably the most popular and has quickly become a favorite for men’s watches, but lots of other hues are being used too! These coatings make it easier than ever to find a watch that suits your style, but did you know these colors don’t last forever?

    In fact, everyday friction can remove the coating, revealing the plain metal beneath. To make matters worse, scratches can’t be buffed away without also removing more coating!

    As more and more color is lost over time, you might take your watch in to be refurbished—only to be told it can’t be done! Most repair shops are only equipped to polish and plate watches using classic tones like gold and silver—but not us!

    Check out this Citizen watch — refurbished and powder coated with brushed and high-polish detailing, all done at our national repair center!

    At our national repair center, our refurbishment experts have pioneered powder coating techniques to get these colored watches looking like new again! That’s one of the many reasons people and businesses across the country choose Service Jewelry & Repair for their refurbishment needs, and we’d love to serve you next!

    Even though black powder coating is our specialty, we have other colors available too! Simply bring your watch into one of our stores, drop by our repair center, or even mail your watch to us for an estimate!

    If you have any questions about powder coating or refurbishment, don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’re always happy to help!